How to Winterize Your Boat - A 9 Step Guide

Not all boats are created equal, so it would be wise to preempt your winterizing with at least a cursory glance at your boat’s owner’s manual. There are a few differences in what methods you will use depending on your specific make and model.

For example, draining the water from the engine will look different depending on if your boat has an outboard or inboard engine. It is best to cater to the unique needs of your individual boat.

Over time, dirt, barnacles and other filth accumulates at the bottom of your boat. Devote a little time to sanding and scraping it all off. Follow this with a thorough pressure wash.

When the bottom of the boat is all cleaned, you can inspect the entire boat for any cracks, blisters and dents. If you see any, get it repaired immediately. They will only get worse during the winter months and it will be a nightmare to fix.

Change your fuel filter and/or canisters and check for any leaks. It is then very important to stabilize your fuel so that your carburetors and fuel injectors don’t get clogged with varnish deposits that ruin fuel systems.

Fill up your tank to 95 percent full with fresh fuel. Add a fuel stabilizer and run your engine for about ten minutes to make sure that the stabilized fuel circulates throughout the engine.

Use an aerosol fogging solution to coat and protect the inside of the engine. Again, it is recommended to check your owners manual as each engine manufacturer promotes different fogging solutions as ideal for their engines.

If you neglect this simple step, corrosion can form inside the engine, destroying the cylinders, pistons and rings.

While draining the water and flushing with antifreeze is a necessary step for all types of engines, the methods used vary with each engine type.

Your owner’s manual will have the exact technique needed for your engine, be it outboard, inboard, or stern.

Over time, the oil in the engine will get contaminated with water and various other toxins. The oil changes, becoming more acidic and potentially damaging to your engine. If the water and toxins sit in the engine over the winter, it can cause excessive wear, which can lead to loss of power, poor fuel economy and possible engine failure.

To prevent this expensive mess, warm up your engine, flush the old oil and replace with fresh, high quality, new oil. Now is a good time to change your oil filters as well.

Drain your old gear oil and replace it with new. Check the old oil coming out. If it is clear, amber-colored lubricant, it means your gear-case seals are working just fine. If water, milky or lumpy oil is coming out, it means your seals need to be replaced.

Before storing your boat for the winter, it’s a good idea to remove all interior electronics and valuables. Electronics have a good chance of getting moisture, which can lead to mold, cause shorts and blow fuses.

For the electronics you are unable to remove, simply spray the exposed electrical connections with a moisture-displacing lubricant. As stored boats are prone to break-ins, it is advisable to remove your valuables with the electronics.

The ideal place to store your boat is in a climate-controlled warehouse. Unfortunately, this is not in the budget of most boat owners. As such, it is then necessary to choose if you want to keep your boat in in-water storage or in out-of-water storage. This decision will depend on where you live, the weather there, the ease of transporting your boat, etc.

No matter which location you opt for, you will need to invest in a durable and well-made cover and frame. Once again, refer to your owner’s manual for a specifically recommended cover for your boat.